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NEO MIATA
RESOURCES First some expert
advice from Norman Garrett, concept engineer for the original Mazda Miata: 1.
Always, drive with the top down unless it is actively precipitating. 2.
Install Koni Sport dampers that allow for a lower ride height (on stock
springs) and install slightly stiffer sway bars front and rear -- but do not go
too stiff for a street car. 3.
Get very good tires and an even better alignment job from a shop that knows
Miatas. See below. 4.
Advance your ignition timing to 14 degrees BTDC (before top dead center), run
93 octane gas (NA cars), and upgrade your exhaust. 5.
If you have over 120k miles on your Miata, budget for a new fuel pump,
alternator, water pump, timing belt, brake/clutch hydraulics, and suspension
bushings unless they have already been done. 6.
Check that your gas pedal actually opens your throttle 100 percent. Then, use
the throttle at 100 percent. 7.
Buy a repair manual, and then locate and clean all engine
grounding straps. 8. Never rev or load a cold engine. Never lug your
engine, either, meaning no wide-open throttle at less than 2000 rpm in any gear
but first. 9.
Learn to smoothly double clutch and heal-and-toe
downshift. Then, learn to rev-match when downshifting into turns. Elegant
drivers smile more. 10.
Never tailgate: Chips in the front bumper paint and windshield add up quickly
before you realize what is happening. 11.
If you have three things wrong with your car, fix them or resentment will creep
in, followed by dissatisfaction, then disassociation, and finally vehicular
divorce. 12.
Study the safety record of air bags for belted drivers and then make a personal
justification for an aftermarket 390mm Nardi Classic wooden steering wheel.
Trust me. 13.
The Miata has a rev limiter at 7200 rpm. Use it. Often. SOLOMiata.com is full of
great information about Miata's. (Cursor over title, press CTRL & left click) or (cursor over title, right click & open
hyperlink) "Access" for Club Members Mud Guards Camping
/ Traveling Roll & Style
Bars Club
Logo Roll & Style Bars Installation Connectors,
fluid, air, etc Shop Orders Cool Breeze Scoop Signs/Graphics Cruise Control Struts / Shocks Drive shaft/Universal Tire Wall Racks For a “Good Time” Torque Plate Fuel System Cleaning Transport "Fun" Miata Websites Upholstery Mechanics Repairs Maint. Wheel & Brake Millimeter equivalents’ Wind
Blocker / Plexiglass Street
Performance SPEC Miata Racing “Access”
for Club Members We have access to: an AutoXray
EZ-Scan AX6000 Code Scanner. Autoxray.com/product_detail.php?pid=94
for instrument details. The Part # AX6000 is an OBD-I and
OBD-II scanner, which includes all OBD-II protocols, including the newly
released Controller Area Network [CAN] protocol. Displays on screen DTCs
(Diagnostic Trouble Codes) and code definitions for: OBD-I codes, OBD-II
generic codes, OBD-II manufacturer specific codes. Supports multiple trouble
code requests: generic codes, pending codes and enhanced codes, which are
stored in the PCM. Displays OBD I and OBD II Live Sensor Data.
FREE Internet Updates. Graph Drivability Capture Data. Archive Scan &
Capture Information. Print Reports and Export Capture Data in Spreadsheet
Format. View LIVE sensor data & engine controlled values from vehicle’s
on-board computer. Resets Check Engine Light. View Freeze Frame Data. Reads and
Displays supported emissions readiness monitor status. Displays supported
Vehicle ID Information (VIN#) & O2 sensor readings. Customizable data view.
a 1991
workshop manual for first generation Miatas 1990-1997. Donated by Ray &
Donna Burks. a 1999
workshop manual for second generation Miatas 1999-2000. a 2004
workshop manual for second generation Miatas 2001-2005. Air
Conditioning Rebuilds & Repairs Bryant's
Automotive Air, 8704 E 43rd St, Tulsa 665-0030 665-2888. Member John Lucas 835-4262
helped member James Smith 812-1652 build his ’90 Miata’s A/C with their help. Air
Ventilators SnapVents from
aircraftspruce.com/menus/ap/vents.html. Tom Jones has some on hand. Car Trends, Jenni Drake @ 627-5190, 4833 S. Memorial
(Eastside). Recommended by tomjones. Sound Alternative @ 251-2323, Eastside of 145th
between 71st & 81st. Auto Advice @ 664-1933, 32nd &
Mingo. Car Toys @ 254-5093, Eastside of Memorial
between 61st & 71st. Alignment Hesselbein,
Mitch only! @ 481-0866, 9324 S Memorial $59. Minus .5 Camper on
each corner. Mitch does some Spec Miata work and knows Miatas! Tulsa Wheel & Brake, Leon Culver @
749-2757, 5255 S. Peoria Batteries Nelson Mazda, Jennifer @ 296-7850, a
factory Mazda battery, after discount, is $90. Interstate Batteries @ 1328 North 105th East Avenue,
Tulsa. 610-0007. Batteries Plus east of Sheridan on 41st. O’Reilly’s, James @ 743-6244, 4621 S Peoria. (Super Start 400 crank batteries for $90 exchange).
Account # 326314 LS Industries. Body Moldings andysautosport.com for body moldings, bumpers, spoilers,
etc. Body Parts, local Keystone Automotive, 9797 E
Admiral Pl @ 828-0590, 9797 E Admiral Pl (tom jones acct# 557974 Thomas
Motor Sports). Has new body parts. Certi-Fit
@ 405 686-0000 or 800
782-7331 in OKC. Has new & used body
parts. Body Work Club member Bill Curts
@ 261-3026, can help you with the interior of your Miata including dash work. Justin Coday, 918-794-4700 Hail Damage Repair, Paint Less
Dent Repair. 5400 S. Mingo. Mike Munyon, 918-671-2000, Paint touch-Up,
Headlight Restoration Momentum Motorsports, Christian Kimball @ 808-6617. Henderson
Auto Body, Brad @ 557-0007, S Peoria, complete body shop. Pete
Kiney Body Shop @ 451-0612,
Birmingham/Charleston, BA Brakes
& Rotors NAPA @ 663-7722, 46th East of Mingo, Acct # 004410
LS Industries. Tulsa Wheel & Brake, Leon Culver @
749-2757, 5255 S. Peoria Trip Suggestions http://www.byways.org/explore/byways/ www.openroadjourney.com Some
club members have some very good books on drives all over the US. Call Jim & Sandy Sturdivant h) 299-8649 c)
232-3828-0 and Gene & Shirley Bedingfield h) 664-4691
c) 637-4692-0 for more
information. travelok.com/toDo/index.asp for
Oklahoma Events. spaceflight1.nasa.gov/realdata/sightings
for Space Station & Shuttle Info. riverparks.org/Events/calendar.asp
for Tulsa River Parks Events. parks.tulsacounty.org/LaFortune.aspx
for Tulsa County Events. Woodall’s
Campground Directory 2009,
is available. US Dept of the Interior,
Bureau of Land Management,
National Parks & Federal Recreation Lands $10 Life Pass
Program for seniors & disabled, www.recreation.gov, District office,
7906 East 33rd Street Suite 101, west of Memorial, 621-4100. Army
Surplus at 39th & Memorial has lots of stuff. Campers wikco.com/timeout.html Elkhart, Indiana 520-316-0446. bf-specialties.com
Elk Grove Village, IL 847 350-9333 trailmasterinc.com
Des Plaines, IL 800-398-9090 motorcycletrailerstore.com
571-482-8080 rollahome.com. Larry Burmesch (414) 617-8466 Port Wa., WI. United
Kingdom Campers
discover.co.uk/folding-campers-trailer-tents/brands Trailer Parts
A & N Trailer Parts, 6028 S. 118th E. Ave 461-8404 (east of Garnett on 61st) Club store on the club website. Club Emblem Embroidery, @ Shirts &
Stuf, 5079 West 51st Str, 918 445-0323. They have our logo on file. Car Emblems, Decals @ Signs Now, 4404 S
Memorial, 663-0066. They have our logo
on file to make decals or magnetic signs. Car
Emblems, Magnetic Contact club
treasurer. buildasign.com Jaunice Wright, 918 671-5194, used
these folks for magnetic signs for
her Rocket Club magnetic signs. Good product and cheaper than we pay now. Invitation
Info Cards Contact bob @ 230-5109. Patches Contact club treasurer. Pins
are $3 each, 2 for $5 or 5 for $10. Contact club treasurer. Miniature
Miatas, Red, $5 each. Contact club
treasurer. Clutches O’Reilly’s, James @ 743-6244, 4621 S Peoria. Account # 326314 LS Industries. Bobbie and John Lucas got a new
clutch and 10lb. flywheel in the their Miata. Much quicker
throttle response and well worth the added expense when replacing the clutch. Connectors, fluid,
air, etc Fluid
Specialties, Brian @ 437-4000,
One South 109th E. Place. Cool
Breeze Scoop coolbreezescoop.com/servlet/StoreFront Car Trends, Jenni Drake @ 627-5190, 4833 S. Memorial (Eastside). Recommended by tomjones. Sound Alternative @ 251-2323, Eastside of 145th
between 71st & 81st. Auto Advice @ 664-1933, 32nd &
Mingo. Car Toys @ 254-5093, Eastside of Memorial
between 61st & 71st. Cup or
Bottle Holder fitnessrepairparts.com or fitnessrepairparts.com/cart/ViewItem/6021610 or call 1 636 634-3699 in Wentzville,
MO. The part number is 6021610. Price is below $25. Speedycarparts.com Drive
Shafts, @ 836-0111,
6960 East 11th Str. South. Tulsa Wheel & Brake, Leon Culver @
749-2757, 5255 S. Peoria Partsgroup.com Solomiata.com Nelson
Mazda, Jennifer @
296-7850 (remember, the 20% club discount on parts) Jim
Sturdivant’s 2001 LS & Tom Jones' 2001 - Symptoms were a squealing noise that
was more noticeable when the car was decelerating &/or a clunk on quick
acceleration or deceleration. Took the
car to Tulsa Wheel & Brake, Leon Culver @ 749-2757, 5255
S. Peoria for diagnosis. It was the
u-joints on the drive shaft. That can be
a one part unit.
I ordered a new shaft from Speedycarparts.com for $200 + $71. It
took 3 days to deliver. Leon changed it
out for $60. Nelson Factory price for a
new drive shaft was $617. Partsgroup.com had a used one for $140+$20 shipping. If
the universal joint could have been rebuilt, a local
shop, Drive Shafts, @ 836-0111, 6960 East 11th Str. South would have done it
for $125. They could rebuild the whole
shaft and balance for $285. Your choice. Electric
Rebuilds Shorty’s Electric, Mike Richardson @
430-0359 or
430-0967, 2604 E Apache Str., Tulsa (east of north Hwy
75). Rebuilds alternators, starters and generators. For A
“Good Time” OSU
Institute of Technology, Culinary Arts Department in Okmulgee, Reservation
message line 918 293-5010
email okm-dining@okstate.edu Tuesday thru Friday 6:30-8:30,
Breakfast $4, no reservations. Tuesday
Tableside Lunch 11 to noon, $8, Reservations. Wednesday
Tech Room 4 course lunch,11 to noon, $8, Reservations. Thursday
Buffet 11 to noon, $8, Reservations. Friday
Buffet 11 until food is gone, $5, no reservations. 50
Free Things To Do in Oklahoma, www.travelok.com/article_page/50- free-things-to-do-in-Oklahoma Frame shop AAA, Johnny Taylor & Jim, 429 S.
Sheridan, @ 592-3458. Fuel
System Cleaning Redline
Sl-1, Complete Fuel
System Cleaner “Fun” Miata web sites Http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mazda_MX-5.
Site has history, specs, colors, special editions, etc Miata.net/faq/production.html has plenty of Fun Facts and is a
portal to all kinds of Miata info. Miata.net/gallery/na.html will start your exploration of all
the colors of Miatas. Miata.net/faq/manual.html will give you an idea about
organization of a Miata club. The
club has a “Work Shop Manual” for NA models for any member who needs to
use it. http://www.miata.net/garage/DashRmv_89_93.pdf
for dash removal http://www.miata.net/garage/ http://forum.miata.net//faq.html http://www.miata.net/faq/faq3.html MiataMania.com
has instructions for
parts they sell. Miata Tech Tips. Miata Information. Mikes-place.biz
has some video instructions for some car repairs and maintance
solutions. Car Trends, Jenni Drake @ 627-5190, 4833 S. Memorial (Eastside). Recommended by tomjones. AutoMate AM2
keyless entry with parking light flash and driver’s side actuator for $226.41
out the door. Sound Alternative @ 251-2323, Eastside of 145th
between 71st & 81st. Auto Advice @ 664-1933, 32nd & Mingo. Car Toys @ 254-5093, Eastside of Memorial
between 61st & 71st. I found a
company called Tulsa Leather Care. The owner is Stan Lackey and he is
located in Sapulpa. I had him clean, strip and re-dye my seats and I' am
very pleased with his work. I delivered the seats to him and in four days I had my "new looking seats" back. Ric
Fornell Mechanics
/ Repairs / Maintenance http://www.miata.net/garage/index.html
is a great place to go so you can determine if the repair is something you want
to do yourself. Ron Coates wants you to know: I
plan to change the timing belt and water
pump on my 1992...I have the Hanes Manual as well as the information from
Miata.net. BUT
I thought I would look on YouTube to see what they had. I found this http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oovptq0q7vc&NR=1.
This guy, who dubs himself "King of Miata's Mike", has a pretty good
little production there where he explains about how to change the timing belts
on several different Miata engines. (they evolved more
over the years than I thought). I think he gives advice on other Miata issues
as well. Because he has like 30 videos on YouTube. At the end of the second
video on Timing Belt Replacement Mike suggests going to MX-5Unleashed.com for
more information. If you were to go to that site, you could find information
about other repairs and just Miata stuff in general. The following link would take you to the
timing belt stuff (which also has links to Mike's videos). http://mx5unleashed.com/tech/timing-belt-mx5.html Sam’s Auto Service, Sam & Vicki Edmonds @ 371-6088, 1123
West Main, Collinsville. Sam works on some member cars and some Spec Miatas at
Hallett. Sam can R&R about anything on your Miata and does engine rebuilds,
too. 123,000K mile service on Tom Jones Silver '01
- Sam R&R'd my tranny for $315. He R&R'd my timing belt / tensioners and water pump / gaskets and
installed new belts for $217.50. While the tranny was out, he R&R'd my clutch with a new kit. He replaced my oil pressure
switch for $22.50. He R&R'd my valve cover gasket
for $37.50. He checked bearings, clutch hydraulics, gasket leaks and supplies
for $7.89. My tranny rebuild parts were $192.96 at
Mazdaspeed and rebuild labor was $100. NAPA provided a clutch for $228 & 2
quarts of Valvoline Synthetic 75W90 for $28, O'Reilly's new water pump was $76,
Nelson Mazda's timing belt kit with tensioners was $111, oil pressure switch was
$21, a/c compressor, power steering & alternator belts were $45 for both. Sam
provided a valve cover gasket for $25 & 2 gallon of 50/50 anti-freeze for $24.
Sam's total labor was $600. A fair wage for quality work. Tom Jones. Momentum
Motorsports, Christian Kimball @ 808-6617. Millimeter
equivalents’ 5mm
is 1/5" 6mm is 1/4" 8mm is 5/16" 10mm
is between 3/8 & 7/16" 12mm is between 7/16
& 1/2" 14mm is between 1/2 & 9/16" 16mm is 5/8" 18mm
is between 5/8 & 3/4" 20mm is between 3/4 &
13/16" 22mm is 7/8" 24mm is between 15/16 & 1" 25mm
is a hair under 1" 26mm is a hair over
1" 28mm is 1-1/8" Mud Guards mazdaparts.org/exac.html mazdastuff.com/product.cfm?ProductID=859 Muffler M & M, Mike @ 835-7639, 4948 E Admiral,
East of Yale. Nelson Mazda If you
have any questions or concerns at Nelson Mazda, our liaison is Jeff
Lewis @ 296-7800 or JLewis@nelsonmazda.com. Parts & Products Club
member Jim Basteri @ 438-0867, has
all kinds of parts and pieces for first generation Miatas. O’Reilly’s, James @ 743-6244, 4621 S Peoria. Account # 326314 LS Industries. Fuel
pump for tom jones 1999 - Symptoms may be engine missing occasionally, slow
starting, fuel starvation. Installation
is simple. Fuel pump available @ Nelson
Mazda, Jennifer @ 296-7850 for a discounted $292.58. NAPA @ 663-7722, 46th
East of Mingo for $193 to $299. Surfside
Auto Parts, 6247 E 15th, Brian 835-9222 for $230. I bought mine at O’Reilly’s, James @
743-6244, 4621 S Peoria for $201.
Installed it myself. Partsgroup.com, Tom Neel @ 1 256 309-0492, Danville, AL for an
excellent array of good used parts. planet-miata.com/index.php?section=31630995 has
used parts. SpeedyCarParts.com 1 800 252-0389
& Cpwstore.carpartswholesale.com/ autopartswarehouse.com - 1 800
913-6119 These are the same
site with lights, drive shafts and inexpensive new parts. Nelson Mazda, Jennifer @ 296-7850 (remember, the 20% club discount
on parts) Partstrain.com - Miata Turn Signal Lights and more Car-Stuff.com - Parts thepartsbin.com - Car, Truck and Import discountbodyparts.com - Parts RSpeed.net - Miata Rear Finish Panel, O2 sensor HandStands.com for non-slip dash pads NAPA @ 663-7722, 46th East of Mingo, Acct # 004410 LS
Industries. O2 sensor for tom jones 2001 – Check engine light
code checked at O’Reilly’s. They wanted $112 for sensor.
Bought at NAPA for $62. Installed it myself. Surfside Auto Parts, 6247 E 15th,
(W. of Sheridan) Brian 835-9222 (OEM (Original Equip as Manufactured)/OES parts. Eaststreet.com, Jim Drago in Memphis, 1 800 700-9080 everything. Mazda Heaven, John @ 1 817 563-2277 in Fort Worth, TX for salvage. Thompson-automotive.com/Thompson_Automotive_Home.html.
Site has interesting products discovered by Pierre Smith. Crazy Red Italian, crazyred.com, for rollbars & style bars. Info.automotix.net for inexpensive parts. Phil’s Auto Repair @ 902-0139, has some engines & engine parts. Awrracing.com for high performance parts. Apex Salvage, 3124 N Peoria @ 425-0148. Mmmiata.com. Miatamania.com. Gomiata.com Partsgeek.com USAutoparts.net Car-part.com Duettomotors.com Ravenwingperformance.net. info.automotix.net Pin Striping Sandy 629-1396, comes to your location. Hallet
HST(High Speed Touring) participants – Don’t forget
about available helmets, fire suits, shoes, collar, etc, george walker @
521-9223. na-motorsports.com/Tracks/ Radar
Detectors bestradardetectors.net Car Trends, Jenni Drake @ 627-5190, 4833 S. Memorial (Eastside). Recommended by tomjones. Sound Alternative @ 251-2323, Eastside of 145th
between 71st & 81st. Auto Advice @ 664-1933, 32nd &
Mingo. Car Toys @ 254-5093, Eastside of Memorial
between 61st & 71st. Radiator Keystone Automotive, 9797 E Admiral Pl @ 828-0590, 9797 E
Admiral Pl (tom jones acct# 557974 Thomas
Motor Sports). Installation by member Brian Laughlin @ 605-6343, 2713 W 68th
Pl, works out of his garage and can R & R about anything on
your car. He is a SCCA ITA Miata racer and very familiar with your Miata. Replace radiator on tom jones 1999 - Checked price at Nelson $485, 2 days out.
Tulsa Radiator had to order from Mazda. Keystone Automotive had in stock for $127.78,
picked it up. Bought upper & lower
hoses for $45.56 at O’Reilly’s, James @ 743-6244, 4621 S Peoria & 2 gallons
of 50/50 coolant. Had Bryan Laughlin
install and check over car for $120. No
problem!! What
makes the better radiator; Aluminum or Copper? I am asked
this question so often that I feel like a broken record telling the pros &
cons repeatedly. I am not a scientist, chemist or engineer but based on my 28
years in the radiator business here is my opinion on which is
better; copper or aluminum radiators. There is much debate over
whether a copper or an aluminum radiator will cool better. There are pros and
cons to each material. It has been scientifically proven
that copper actually transfers heat better than aluminum. It is easier to
repair in most cases than aluminum and until the last couple of years was much
less expensive. The drawbacks to a copper radiator are the weight difference
(aluminum is much lighter) and the solder joints that hold it together. The
solder that secures the tubes to the fins does not transfer heat as quickly as
copper and slows down the heat transfer. The presence of solder where the tubes
are soldered into the headers is also the main cause
of what is known as “solder bloom”. I am sure all of you have looked inside a
radiator at some time and observed the white residue growing around the tubes.
This growth is the result of chemical reactions from different metals (brass
tubes, copper header, lead/tin solder) and lime and other chemicals in the
water/antifreeze mixture. In the 1990’s some manufacturers started using a
process called “Copubraze” which eliminated the solder between the tubes and
the headers. The tubes were brazed instead of soldered which prevented the
solder bloom problem and also created a better made
core. This process was more costly however and most manufacturers were favoring
aluminum anyway due to the weight savings. Copper core manufacturers also
started using smaller and thinner tubes to break the coolant down into smaller
amounts to further improve cooling. Smaller tubes
clogged up much easier especially when the vehicles owner did not adhere to
recommended cooling system flushing intervals. They also used thinner material
to cut weight and improve heat transfer but the longevity suffered. Aluminum radiators are welded or “aluminum brazed” and the finished piece is
100% aluminum. This eliminates the dissimilar metals and solder bloom problems
that affect copper radiators. Aluminum radiators can also use wider tubes that
create more surface contact area from the tubes to the fins and helps dissipate
the heat quicker. Most aluminum radiators use 1” wide tubes and some
manufacturers like Griffin offer 1.25” and 1.5” tubes as well. Traditional
copper radiators usually use ½” tubes so a four row copper radiator has
slightly less fin contact area than a two row aluminum
core with 1” tubes when you take into account the loss of contact area at the
curved ends of the tubes. Most OEM copper radiators were
built with the tubes on 9/16” centers from each other. All aluminum
cores are built with the tubes on 7/16” or 3/8”
centers creating a denser and more efficient core than a standard copper core.
I generally tell customers that a high efficiency (tubes on 7/16” or closer
centers) copper four row will cool the same as an aluminum core with two rows
of 1” tubes. If more cooling is required from the radiator than
either of these designs will provide, than an aluminum core with two
rows of 1.25” is the thickest recommended for a street application. Any thicker
than that and you may have trouble pulling air through the core at low speeds
or when at a light. Aluminum offers the advantage of
about 30% to 40% less weight. To a racer this is a huge advantage over copper.
Aluminum can also be polished out to a mirror like
finish for those concerned with show appearance. Neither has an advantage when
it comes to corrosion. Left unprotected, a copper radiator core will turn green
and deteriorate rapidly especially in a damp environment. That is why copper
radiators have always been painted, usually black. Aluminum will oxidize if not
protected from the elements. If your radiator needs to be replaced and you want to retain as much originality as
possible then recoring your original copper radiator may be the best choice for
you. A copper radiator core can be made more efficient
by changing the tube spacing and fin count. As I stated earlier the radiators
that were made from the 1950’s to the 1970’s generally used ½” wide tubes
placed on 9/16” centers from each other. If you counted the fins, you might get
as few as six or eight fins per inch (FPI). If the tubes are
placed closer together and the fins are packed in tighter a denser core
is created that throws off much more heat. A high efficiency core can have
tubes on 7/16”, 3/8” or even 5/16” centers and fin counts increased to 12 to 14
FPI. That may not seem like a big deal but the surface area is greatly
increased. As an example, a 26” wide radiator core with tubes on 9/16” centers
has about 45 tubes from side to side. A high efficiency core of the same width
has 57 tubes from side to side. Combined with all the additional fins between
the tubes this provides approximately 25% to 30% better cooling than the OEM
radiator had. A three row high efficiency core will
cool about the same as a regular four row without taking away another 5/8” of
fan clearance. Going to a thicker core will cool better but there is one big
thing to remember. As the air passes through each row of tubes, it is picking
up heat along the way. The air cools off each
following row of tubes a little less than the previous rows. A four row core is
of course better than a two row core but increasing a cores thickness does not
necessarily mean it will continue to get more efficient as it gets thicker. As
I said earlier, a core that is too thick will also
impede the airflow at low speeds. So
which is better, aluminum or copper? My opinion is neither. Each one has
advantages over the other in different areas. The decision over which to use in
your particular case comes down to what is more important to you. Weight,
appearance, originality and cost all need to be considered
before you make your decision. From my own experience on my own vehicles, I
have found that a properly built high efficiency copper radiator will cool the
same as a well made aluminum radiator. Like I said at
the beginning, I am not a scientist or an engineer but this is my opinion and I’m stickin’ to it. Car Trends, Jenni Drake @ 627-5190, 4833 S. Memorial (Eastside). Recommended by pierresmith. Sound Alternative @ 251-2323, Eastside of 145th
between 71st & 81st. Auto Advice @ 664-1933, 32nd &
Mingo. Car Toys @ 254-5093, Eastside of Memorial
between 61st & 71st. Roll
& Style Bars The Miata Club does not endorse or
condemn any bars of any type. All who
have a 2006 or newer Miata have “Seat Back Bars” & reinforced windshield
support. This system has proven itself
to some of our members. For the rest of us, remember that it
is a given that any type of a bar system could contribute to a head injury
because of the “location” of the bar.
Hence, if you have a rollbar, always wear a helmet, in a competitive
environment or not. Some rollbars are angled backwards. The intent is to lessen head injury
and give more room for reclining the seats back. The down side is that this bar
system may not work with hardtops or glass rear windows. A combination of proper seats and a raked roll
bar (? Boss Frog or Hard Dog?), could reduce the probability of serious head
injury from hitting your head on the roll bar, even if you are rear-ended. Some
believe style bars could contribute to injury from a "mousetrap"
effect in a rollover. Padded bars could
be considered helpful in any bar situation to avoid a fatal injury from contact
with a roll or style bar. Educate
yourself and choose carefully. Ask
members what bar they have and why they have it! Take a close look at the Hard Dog
Ace Side Braced Main Hoop, Double Diagonals to rearward
braces with harness bar between rearward braces (not compatible with glass rear
window). Good-Win-Racing.com
– Autopower, Boss Frog, Hard Dog Rollbars, etc http://www.good-win-racing.com/Mazda/Miata-Performance-Parts.html?id=owNjIDvg Boss Frog Info http://www.bossfrog.biz/Miata_Rollbars.html http://www.bossfrog.biz/pdf/BF.Double.Hoop.Testing.pdf Hard
Dog Info http://www.bethania-garage.com/why.htm MMmiata.com - Hard Dog-Good for all style &
rollbars http://www.mmmiata.com/ CrazyRed.com
- Style Bars & Racing Beat Type-V Style Bar Frenzybars.com
- Style Bars & 4pt Style Bar & Cockpit Brace & Saddlebag RacingBeat.com
- Great explanations and bars http://www.racingbeat.com/conmiata2.htm GoMiata.com
- Great site for Frog & Hard Dog rollbars & Tail Lights http://www.gomiata.com/noname1.html?gclid=CI2Hx-TMg5ICFQ7GGgodHDmo9Q Miata.net
- Site for opinions
and stories http://www.Miata.net, forum "style bar vs. roll bar" Bethania-garage.com
- Crash photo link http://www.bethania-garage.com/testimonials.htm Roll
& Style Bars Installation Brian
Laughlin @ 605-6343, 2713 W 68th Pl, works out of his garage and
can R & R about anything on your car. He is a SCCA ITA Miata racer and very
familiar with all roll bar situations. Momentum
Motorsports, Christian Kimball @ 808-66178. Seat Covers carcoverplanet.com Bought the Spacer Mesh for my ‘01 for $119.99. tom jones miatamania.com Got mine at this Moss web site. Call custom
cloth seat covers (velour), part number 237-380
and are $169.95. I know mine cost near $200 with shipping but I'm pleased with them. Jim Peoples 437-7519 Shop Orders for warranty covered
corrections for your Miata can be found at MazdaUSA.com and
Finishlineperformance.com. Questions to
club members George Walker @ 521-9223 or Rick Hardmeyer @ 499-3969. Signs buildasign.com,
Jaunice Wright, 918 671-5194, used
these folks for magnetic signs for
her Rocket Club magnetic signs. Good
product and cheaper than we pay now. IZoom Graphics, Call Sean Grubb 918 836-9666 for appt. 9514 E 54th
Str. Suite A, west of Mingo. Struts
/ Shocks O’Reilly’s, James @ 743-6244, Monroe Sensa Trac
$62 & up. Account # 326314 LS Industries. TireRack.com,
Got 4 Koni STR.T Twin IPG;s for $251.83 to door
(tomjones). Tires - Research reviews & prices at: TireRack.com (Bridgestone,
Dunlop, Fusion, Yokohama, Continental, Kumho, Michelin,
Pirelli, Sumitomo) Discounttiredirect.com (Kumho, Hankook,
Falken, Nitto, Dunlop, Yokohama, BFGoodrich, Michelin, Nitto) Tiredeals4less.com
tiresdirect.net
(Toyo,
General, Continental) Bridgestone Potenza
RE960AS Pole Position. on John Neuman’s 2003. Bridgestone
Potenza 185/60R15. On Jim Sturdivant’s 2001. Dunlop Direzza Sport Z1
Star Spec. This is a popular tire for SCCA SOLO drivers. General
Exclaim UHP
215/45/17 on Pierre Smith’s 2006. From TireRack for $390, Install was $78. Replaced OEM
Bridgestone 050A runflats 205/45/17.
Each tire is 5 lbs lighter than the runflats. Kumho Ecsta HP4 185/60R14.
On Chris Thompson’s 1997. Michelin Pilot SX GT 195/50VR15 was the 1999 factory tire. Nitto NT 450 Extreme
Performance 195
width 50 aspect ratio R radial construction 15 diameter, UTQG > 300
treadwear A traction A temperature, 81 load rating index
for 1,019 V
speed rating for 149mph. On tom jones'
2001. Toyo Proxes 4, 205/50R15, a 300
treadwear rated AA A tire for street & HST track for $78 + $10 shipping. Yokohama S.drive 205/45R17 on J. Hendricks’ 2006. Quiet and
less harsh than most. Yokohama
AVS ES100 195/60HR14. On tom jones’ 1999. Yokohama Advan Neova AD08 180 AA A. Quite
a tire! What All the Numbers Mean
Manufacture Date Tires manufactured since 2000, the week and year the tire was produced has been provided by the last four digits of the Tire ID Number with 2 digits being used to identify the week immediately preceding the 2 digits used to identify the year. Example: DOT U2LL LMLR 5107 – was made in the 51st week of 2007. While the entire Tire ID Number is required to be branded onto one of every tire, current regulations also require that DOT and the first digits of the Tire ID Number also be branded on the opposite sidewall. Therefore, you may see a Tire ID Number that appears incomplete (DOT U2LL ) and requires looking at the tire’s other sidewall to find the entire number. Tire Size Designation Tire Type - P designates that the tire is a passenger vehicle tire. LT for light truck. T for temporary, or spare. Tire Width - The first 3 numbers is the width of the tire in millimeters (mm), measured from sidewall to sidewall. Since this measure is affected by the width of the rim, the measurement is for the tire when it is on its intended rim size. Aspect Ratio - This 2 digit number tells you the height of the tire, from the bead to the top of the tread as a percentage of the tire width. An aspect ratio of 75 means the tire's height is 75 percent of its width. The smaller the aspect ratio, the wider the tire in relation to its height. High performance tires usually have a lower aspect ratio than other tires. This is because tires with a lower aspect ratio provide better lateral stability. When a car goes around a turn lateral forces are generated and the tire must resist these forces. Tires with a lower profile have shorter, stiffer sidewalls so they resist cornering forces better. Tire Construction - ( R) indicates tire was made using radial construction. Older tires had diagonal bias (D) or bias belted (B) construction. A separate note indicates # of plies making up the sidewalls and tread. Rim Diameter - This number specifies, in inches, the wheel rim diameter the tire is designed for. Uniform Tire Quality Grading (UTQG) - This is a tire information system designed to help you make relative comparisons between a single manufacturer's passenger car tires except for: deep-tread, winter-type snow tires; space-saver or temporary use spares; or tires with normal rim diameters of 12 inches or less. Under UTQG, tires are graded by the manufacturer in three areas: tread wear, traction, and temperature resistance. The UTQG is not a safety rating and not a guarantee that a tire will last for a prescribed number of miles or perform in a certain way. It simply gives you additional information to combine with other considerations, such as price, brand loyalty, and dealer recommendations. Your tire's UTQG rating tells you three things: Tread Wear: This is a comparative rating based on the wear rate of the tire when tested under controlled conditions. For example, a tire graded 150 would perform over one and a half (1.5) times as well as a tire graded 100. The relative performance of tires depends upon the actual conditions of their use and may depart significantly from the norm due to variations in driving habits, service practices, and differences in road characteristics and climate. The higher the number, the longer you can expect the tread to last. The number is not an accurate indicator of how long your tread will actually last. It's a good relative measure. You can expect a tire with a larger number to last longer than one with a smaller number. A lower number suggests a softer composition and better adhesion to the road. Traction: Grades from highest to lowest are AA, A, B, and C. They represent the tire's ability to stop on wet pavement as measured under controlled conditions on test surfaces of asphalt and concrete. The grade is based on braking (straight ahead) traction tests and does not include cornering (turning) traction. Temperature: Grades from highest to lowest are A, B, and C. They represent the tire's resistance to the generation of heat and its ability to dissipate heat and how well it handles the buildup of heat when tested under controlled conditions on a specified indoor laboratory test wheel. The grade applies to a properly inflated tire that is not overloaded, underinflated or under excessive speed or excessive loading either separately or in combination, can cause heat buildup and possible tire failure. Service Description - The service description consists of two things: Load Rating Index: (0 to 279) The load index indicates the maximum amount of weight a tire can safely carry. A higher number indicates that the tire has a higher load capacity. Passenger car tire loads typically range from 75 to 105. It is very important to maintain the proper load index for your vehicle when replacing your tires. Here are some indexes: Index Load(#) Index Load(#) Index Load(#) Index
Load(#) Index Load(#) Index Load(#) Index Load(#) 46 375 55
481 64 617 73 805 82 1047 91
1356 100 1764 47 386 56
494 65 639 74 827 83 1074 92
1389 101 1819 48 397 57
507 66 639 75 852 84 1102 93
1433 102 1874 49 408 58
520 67 677 76 882 85 1135 94
1477 103 1929 50 419 59
536 68 694 77 908 86 1168 95
1521 104 1984 51 430 60
551 69 716 78 937 87 1201 96
1565 105 2039 52 441 61
567 70 739 79 963 88 1235 97
1609 106 2094 53 454 62
584 71 761 80 992 89 1279 98
1653 107 2149 54 467 63
600 72 783 81 1019 90 1323 99 1709 108
2205 Speed Rating: The letter that follows the load rating indicates the maximum speed allowable for this tire (as long as the weight is at or below the rated load), from the Government by meeting minimum standards for reaching and sustaining a specified speed. In general, a higher speed rating will result in better vehicle handling. Q-Up
to 100mph S-Up
to 112mph U-Up to 124mph V-Up to 149mph Z-149mph
& up R-
Up to 106mph T- Up to 118mph H- Up to 130mph W-
Up to 168mph Y- Up to 186mph NOTE: Calculating the Tire Diameter (this can help with tire
clearances for your car, if you want to change from stock tire sizes) Multiply the tire width by
the aspect ratio to get the height of the tire. 235 (tire width) x .75 percent (aspect
ratio) = 176.25 mm (176.25/25.4(conversion
number) =6.939 in) (tire height) Then we add twice the tire
height to the rim diameter. 2 x 6.939 in + 15 inches (rim diameter)
= 28.878 in (28.878x25.4(conversion
number) =733.5 mm)
(tire diameter) This is the unloaded
diameter; as soon as any weight is put on the tire,
the diameter will decrease. If we can
maintain the diameter of the tire with original equipment, tire clearance on
your vehicle shouldn’t be affect by enough of a margin
that would cause a rubbing problem. 195/50R15 22
11/16” diameter (stock) 205/50R15 23 1/16” diameter (over ½”) 195/55R15
23 7/16” diameter (over ¾”) 215/50R15 23
7/16” diameter (over ¾”) 205/55R15 23 14/16” diameter (over 1 3/16”) etc. Tire
Wall Racks Hyloft.com
has 2 wall racks for 4 to 6 tires. One for $100 and 1 for $140. http://www.hyloft.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=40&Itemid=130 Tops Robbins soft tops at
convertibletops.com. (original part# 2916 or 2917). or
autotopsdirect.com for
Soft tops Kenneth @
437-1501 for top replacement & repair. Moss / Lester’s Vinyl Tops, Sheri or Doty @ 742-3326, 4954 S
Peoria. Hard Tops (a used hardtop
should not cost more than $1,000) Teammiata.com/libs/Miata_Hard_Tops.htm
for explanations and eBay tops. Gomiata.com/accessories-tops--tonneaus---boots-hard-top.html for
$1,400 to $4,300. Smoothline.com/miata.php
for $1,400 to $1,500. Replaced top on tom jones 2001 - Bought top with glass window at
convertibletops.com for $359. Kenneth
installed it for $200. Aug 10, 2011, Replaced top on
Ron Coates 1992. The top I bought from Moss cost $202 DELIVERED! Then Ken charged a couple hundred to install
it. The Robbins top has a new cheaper
model...but for a car this old, I could not see spending any more than needed. Torque
Plate, Custom Carbone Racing @ 835-6596, 3907 E Admiral Pl.. (talk to club member Errol Goad
716-0211 in Adair.) Trailer
Hitch http://www.thehitchstore.com/ Transport Exotic
Auto Transport @ 1 800 766-8797 exoticautotransport.net Reliable
Carriers @ 1 480 496-8000
ext. 6602 www.reliable-carriers.com Reliable
Auto Transport @ 1 206 579-8080
reliableautotrans.com Upholstery Finished
Edge, Joey
Dimmet @ 749-1701,
6500 S. Peoria. James Taylor’s Custom Bike Seats @ 902-7834,
11th between Yale & Sheridan. Covered John Lucas’ ‘83 280ZXT seats and they look great. Trim & Upholstery Supply @
834-6691, 1355 N. Marion (East of Harvard). American Auto Trim @ 838-9767, 5004 E.
11th Str. Headliners, tops, seats, carpet. Weather Get
a 15 day forecast at Accuweather.com/us/ok/tulsa/74136/forecast.asp?partner= accuweather&traveler=0&metric=0 Astrotulsa.com/Observe/observe.asp
is the Astronomy Club website with GMTime. Wheels TireRack.com
for TRMotorsport C1M, 15", 30mm offset, 13 lbs for $89 + shipping. Sport
Edition CD, 15", 40mm offset, 17 lbs for $79 + shipping. Wheel
& Brake Tulsa Wheel & Brake, Leon Culver @
749-2757, 5255 S. Peoria. Wheel refinishing, Corey @ 408-5115. Wind Blocker
/ Plexiglass Plastic
Engineering at 6801
E. 44th (south of 41st & Sheridan) 622-9660 for a custom plexiglass blocker. Glass Masters, Safelite glass, 8504 E Admiral Pl. 663-7000.
You'll like the low price but not the staff. Lowest
price guarantee (’90 is $160 – $170, tom’s ’99 was $135.46 + $10 for new
rubber. Tom's 2001 were $152 + $15 for new rubber). Window glass available. Binswanger
Glass, PGW glass, 317 East Kenosha, Broken Arrow. 258-1531. 2006 cost including tax $234. Made an appointment, install took about an
hour. Pierre Smith 495-3988. 2001 cost $195. SOLOMiata.com is full
of great information about Miata's. Speed starting at 1/4
mile and beyond Club members Errol & Kim Goad at
716-0211 in Adair, are crazy about seeing Mustangs and similar rivals in their
rearview mirror. They have connections
for all aspects of this endeavor, from engine upgrades to body parts, and a
willingness to help other club members accomplish any dreams we may have with
regard to ultimate horsepower and speed.
Heating relocation systems for high-powered Miata’s! Here’s a
ringer. Kelly Riley at akarilo@yahoo.com loves to play with
turbos. He had a ’91 with a full stand alone computer and a connection with Bill Cardell at
Flyin’ Miata. His number is 698-3447. Club member Mark Quisenberry at 341-3820
has a ’04 Mazdaspeed that he is very familiar with. He
may be able to help you with your turbocharged intercooled engine, lowered
sport suspension, and beefed up transmission. Brian Laughlin @ 605-6343, 2713 W 68th
Pl, is a club member and works out of his garage. As a multiple national winner
on the Midwest circuit of the SCCA in the ITA PS class driving a modified Miata
and a certified race car mechanic graduate from the Jim Russell Racing School
in California, he can R & R about anything on your car. www.24HoursofLeMons.com
for 2 days of wheel to wheel competition on an amateur
level. SOLOMiata.com is full
of great information about Miata's. Momentum Motorsports, Christian Kimball @ 808-6617. Club member Randy Wagner and his
brother Marty have driven in Hallett Car Club GT1 class / SCCA FProduction
class with a modified Miata race car for over 30 years. Club member George Walker has driven the SCCA
Solo class for years. They may be able
to answer some race or Hallett Track questions for you. Brian Laughlin @ 605-6343, 2713 W 68th
Pl, is a club member and works out of his garage. As a multiple national winner
on the Midwest circuit of the SCCA in the ITA PS class driving a modified Miata
and a certified race car mechanic graduate from the Jim Russell Racing School
in California, he can R & R about anything on your car. Spec Miata SCCA MazdaMotorsports.com,
1 800 435-2508. Race car set-up @ http://www.specmiata.com/download/sm_setup_guide_v2.pdf. AppliedRacingTechnology.com,
Karl or Ed @ 1 512 707-8869 in Austin. Humble
Performance, Alex
Hagen @ 461-8951, Dyno-Jet testing.
Memorial, E on 54th. Class
specifications are at http://www.specmiata.com/specifications.htm. AdvancedAutosport.com @ 608 313-1230 in Wisconsin. Spinductionsystems.com OGRacing.com Updated 12-13-2017 |
